The most common method for constructing a tabletop with a perfectly flat surface is the indirect method (on mesh or paper).

Personally though, I’d rather lay my work direct – apart from the fact I can see the work unfolding and give myself the chance to make on-the-fly changes, I actually prefer my work when it’s layed with a bit of texture.

Obviously with a tabletop though, you want a surface that doesn’t have sharp edges.

On the following pages, I’m going to outline my method for constructing flat tabletops, but by using the direct method.

	The first step is to familiarise yourself with the different thickness of tiles you’ll be using.In most situations, it’s best to lay the thickest tiles first, and use that as your level for the entire project.
	The recess in my tabletop (the area where the mosaic will go) is 15 mm, so I’ve cut some scraps of 15mm plywood into guides as shown, to help me achieve that level evenly through the whole mosaic.
	Before priming the backing board, I like to get my design outline down.
	Then prime the backing board with watered down sealant.
	So the principle of this method is to lay your tiles in a bed thickness that brings the face of the tile above 15mm.Then you set your plywood guides in place.
	Then using the face of a whole flat tile, flatten the laid tiles bringing them down to the 15mm level of the mosaic.
	So in starting this design, I started with some of the trickiest parts first, laying them on a thick bed of glue. If your design is fairly straightforward, I’d recommend starting with the thickest tiles first & the thinnest tiles last.Then I set by guides in place as shown.
	Then flatten them to the correct level as shown.
	So then I complete the next small section flattening it the same way.
	Moving on through the design, flattening each section to the level as I go.

	One problem you’ll strike using this method is that of using too much glue. You’ll know when you have, as you’ll get glue on your levelling tile as shown.Keep a watch out for this – you don’t want to be spreading little bits of glue all over your laid tiles. Wipe the tile clean as soon as you notice it, and then clean up the area where glue has pushed through the tiles – it gets trickier later if the glue dries.This problem is good for your final product though – not using enough glue is a far worse problem – I actually recommend pulling up any work that has sunk below the level and starting it again!
	Working your way through the design using this method for any sections that you lay
	It pays to think the process through – I’m laying th sections within the palm fronds immediately, as I know when the glue starts to harden, fine work like this gets tricky if not impossible.
	Notice how I’m still using the plywood guides, but some of the sections have set pretty well, and I can use those areas as my guide too.
	The work was left overnight at this stage, and so before I start work again, I need to remove all the dried glue dags. If they are left as they are, they’ll make your job very difficult.
	Laying completed. At this point, you’ll want to slowly run your hands over the work and view it at eye level to detect any imperfections. You’ll need to fix them before the glue sets too well – there’s not much you can do when the work’s been grouted.
	Completed work after grouting.