Following is a description (rather than instruction) of how to create a table top from compressed fibre cement (CFC). It’s a difficult material to work with, but a fabulous base for an outdoor tabletop.

Each table base you come across will require it’s own method of attachment. Hopefully you’ll pick up an idea or two by reading how I tackled this one.

	The ring for the tabletop is made from steel with a galvanised coating.Using black etch primer and an old rag, I’ve smeared the inside ot the ring with a solid coat of the primer. The reason for doing this is to ensure your grout & tile glue will stick to the metal ring effectively.For aesthetics, I’ve also lightly smeared some of the primer on the outside edge to give an aged look.
	Once the primer has dried (a few minutes), fit the ring over the CFC base. For specific instruction on how I cut the base out, go to Cutting CFC circles.This ring has 4 tabs welded on so I can attach the 2 pieces together.
	Once I fitted the two together, I realised that the recess on the front (where the mosaic will go) is too deep – almost 20mm deep, where 15mm is about the maximum I want to work with for these tiles and this design.To counter this, Ive used several stainless steel washers to “pack up” where I’m attaching the metal to the base.
	You simply cannot use self tapping screws straight into CFC. When I buy my screws (always stainless steel for outdoor use), at the same time I buy the correct size drill bit for pilot holes. The pilot holes need to only very slightly smaller than the gauge of the screw.Now drill pilot holes into the CFC.
	Now put your screws in. It’s handy to have 2 screwdrivers at the ready – one for drilling the pilot holes, and another for immediately putting the screws in.
	Flip the top over to make sure your work is accurate – the depth of the recess should be the same right around , and hopefully there’s no gaping holes on the edge.
	Bead the underneath parts with sealant where the metal meets the CFC.I use Sikaflex for this job, but any good quality silicone is suitable.
	Dip your fingers in soapy water and smooth out the sealant as shown. You can paint over the base with black once the sealant has dried.

	With the tabletop upside down, I’ve place the legs in the centre and then traced around the attachment plate so I know where it goes easily. Notice how I’ve also made a double marking to assist with location.
	For the attachment, I’m using 6mm stainless steel bolts with a countersunk head. The nuts are stainless steel nylock – they won’t undo once tightened.
	Using a 6mm hammer drill bit, I use a hammer drill to go through the metal plate (which was predrilled) & the CFC.
	As each hole is drilled, I slip one of the bolts backwards into the hole to hold everything in place.Picture shows drilling complete with bolts in backwards.You can now dissassemble the two pieces, and be sure it will fit back together (something that never seems to happen if you don’t take great care!).
	Now countersink the holes from the front so your countersunk bolts will finish flush with the rest of the tabletop.
	Close up of a countersunk hole.
	Bolt your legs to your top & your table is assembled – ready to mosaic on!